Flying Monkey Discs brings you disc golf adventures, ramblings, and reviews.



Been awhile... Nikko putts... sweet...

It's been awhile since I have posted. A combination of work and winter has kept me off the course for a whole month now. Anyways, check out these sweet putts by Gateway Pro and 2009 USDGC Champion, Nikko Locastro.


Ching Precision


So i played a full round without drivers today... and did a couple strokes better than my average, lets just not say what that is.

I used the Ching Precision for about 30% of my throws... mostly drives and long approaches as I rely on my wizards and magics for everything else. But I got a pretty good feel for the Ching Precision. Aside from the thumb divots, it flies identical to a Buzzz. Somewhere between a Pro D and Elite Z in stability.

At first glance, the divots seem to be in different places to accommodate different hand sizes. But they can also be used to set up different angles and lines. As your thumb gets closer to the center of the disc, the angle gets higher (anhyzer). As your thumb gets closer to the rim, the angle of the disc drops down (hyzer). I made every line I ever tried to make with a Buzzz... but with a lot more Precision... hey oh! I am not trying to knock on the Buzzz, but I spent 3 months trying my hardest to like the Buzzz and I couldn't do it. It wasn't the Buzzz, it was me, the Buzz truly holds whatever line you put it on, and I was too inconsistent to put the right line on the disc. The divots in the Precision helped me fix those problems, kind of like a Buzzz with training wheels. Its only 8 bucks in the Power plastic which is pretty much Pro D... its worth the try.


Discraft Nuke and Latitude 64 Halo

These ratings are from - free shipping on orders over $12 by the way.

Discraft Nuke

Speed  13 
High Speed Stability  -1 
Low Speed Stability 

Latitude 64 Halo

Speed  11 
High Speed Stability 
Low Speed Stability 


Discwing Transcend

So about a week ago, I got this:

So far... does what I want it to, and more importantly what I got it for... a flat falling turnover disc. Flat falling, in my opinion, is very important in a turnover shot. You want the disc to sit down when it hits the ground, because if it comes down on an anny angle, it will roll away. What has surprised me about this disc, is that it is a little more versatile than I expected it to be. I knew I could throw it hard to get it to take a smooth turnover line, and back off on power to get straight finesse shots. But with a little touch, the disc will also hold a tight hyzer line, similar to what you would get from an Ultra-Star.

The baseline plastic is amazing grip: AMAZING! But it has the worst durability ever: AWFUL! On the VERY FIRST THROW, a downhill turnover shot thrown at about 70% power, the Transcend "Plinkoed" down a tree and took a huge gash into its rim. Sigh...

Latitude 64 Gold Line Halo

its so shiny... picked up one of these from DGCenter. Don't know when it will show up, but I shall keep you updated.


Gateway Ninja Logo Contest

On the PDGA forums, David McCormack announced a logo design contest for Gateway's upcoming driver the Ninja. He's going to pick what he thinks are the top 6, and then let everyone else vote. The winner gets $500.00 in Gateway merch... im in. So far, I have entered the following ideas...


Those darn kids are ruining the park!

Really? First off, I didn't see any teens or students running wild in the video. But I am sure that when people aren't around, they come out from hiding and stomp all over the ground so they kill all the grass... noooo not the grass!!

Caution: sarcasm ahead.

Sure, sure frolfers can play disc golf. Its a park: its a place for recreation and fitness. Parks are here to promote citizens health and well being whether it be running, walking your dog, having picnics, playgrounds, and yes, FROLF! But Disc Golfers, just like everyone, this isn't a "free lunch?" You have to pay just like grandma over there did for her 6am fanny-pack-power-walk. You have to pay just like Brad Broheim did so that he could take Rover out for his daily leash free walk, complete with tree pee and puppy poo. DISC GOLFERS need to pay just like little 5 year old Johnny did so that they could dig for and eat worms by the jungle gym. This ain't a free lunch.

Sigh... for the most part, P&R departments have recognized (and respected) disc golf as a lifetime fitness activity. But I have heard of many towns like this one, where Parks see an opportunity to make some $$$. In their defense, money is something very difficult for them to come by, and even harder to allocate. But looking at the video, the park did not look like it was in that bad of shape. I have definitely seen worse and those Parks were not closed. Could it be better? Yes. Is it disc golfers responsibility to pay up? No. Is it disc golfers responsibility to help? Yes.

Whether its disc golf or dog walkers, citizens should take care of their Parks. It is in fact a free lunch (PBJ between two slices of crispy tax dollars). If this was my home course, I would see this as a call to arms. It's hard for fanny-pack grandmas to organize and volunteer for some landscaping, but it's an easy deuce for disc golf clubs and leagues. The best courses have come to be because of the strong relationship between clubs and P&R.


Big Wing Drivers: Incoming!!!

In recent years, manufacturers have been pushing for faster drivers. Physics dictates that they be sharp and wide rimmed: 

They're heeere!!!

The Boss and Groove are almost old news, with 2.5 and 2.4 cm rims respectively. It seems that most Innova pros (and Nikko) still prefer the Destroyer (2.2cm). The Katana's recent release seems to be an attempt to put that wide rim into weaker hands/arms. It is indeed a sidewinder on steroids. It features the Boss' 2.5cm rim, and the Destroyer's top, giving it a butt ton of glide and turn. Its release has only been in fundraisers for the Japan Open (Pro, R-Pro, Champ) and Worlds (Star). Not much has been said about the star mold. The R-Pro should be out for general release in January 2010. 
I must say though, the Japan open stamps are sweeeeeet...

Discraft has been tweeting/facing (facebook?) that their Nuke (2.5cm) is coming soon. The forums have had a few words from "testers," revealing that there is both a regular and an SS version out there. The "SS" was being tested by Discraft players in November and as reported as being much less stable than the Force. The regular version which is about to be released is expected to be more stable than the earlier SS, but similar in speed: much faster than the Force. It might be fist released as a fundraiser for The Memorial. This Nuke's rim is Discraft's largest yet:

Latitude's Halo is already out and its just a matter of time before the discs make it through customs and into retail stores. With a 2.4cm rim, the disc is supposed to be stable up to 300ft. I really have no experience with Latitude's discs but I hear good things. The Halo is coming out in both their Opto line and their latest (shiniest) Gold line.

David McCormack of Gateway has mentioned a prototype in the works both on his blog and on the PDGA forums. In the forums he said it would be called the Ninja, and it would have a little HS understablity. Look for the Ninja to feature surface technology. If you have ever held an Assassin, the outer 1 inch on the top of the disc is a little rough; that's surface technology. Also, if you have held an Apache, the rim has micro grooves that also help to redruce drag, the prototype may have both. McCormack says that they expect to have the disc ready by The Memorial.


Drivers have been getting bigger and bigger rims for awhile... these drivers may have 2.4-2.5 cm rims, but more popular max d drivers have been in the 2.1-2.3 range for a few years now, including the Destroyer and Surge. Discwing's Quarter K had a 2.3cm rim while Quest's Double D has a massive 2.6cm rim. The latest batch of big rim drivers seems to be aiming towards making a big rim disc with more HS turn.


Cabin Fever + Online Shopping

Temperatures finally dipped below 30degrees for a full week. I know you Minnesoooooootans and Miiiiiiichiganders are still playing shirts and skins ultimate games, but my Kansas ruby-slipper-toes are cold... really cold. The past week has been work, sleep, and couch slouching. No frolf makes flying monkey a dull monkey.

"Snowed-in," I have rearranged my bag no less than 10 times this week, without playing once, in the end, I have the same bag I had the last time I played:
161g R-Pro Katana - Max distance (no headwind), long turnovers.
164g EHPP Apache - Control driver, moderate headwinds, straight shots.
165g EHPP Spirit - Long hyzers, spike hyzers, freaky flex shots...
166g R-Pro Cro - Windy approach, slight hyzer approaches
145g Soft Magic - Turnover shots within 150ft
175g SSS Magic - Go to putter
175g Soft O Wizard - Short drives, straight approaches that must not go right (upto 200ft)
175g SSS Wizard - Go to approach disc within 200ft, windy putter, I-need-luck-putts. 
 I have shifted discs in and out, but in the end I always come back to 12 -14 discs with these included. In my compulsion to do something/anything disc golf, I have convinced myself that I need a midrange game. It makes sense right? Sure, I hit most shots within 200ft using my Wizards, but what about the 150-200ft turnover shot? I need an understable midrange! Time to go shopping!

What a dangerous combination: Cabin Fever + Online Shopping. If one is not careful, a few points and clicks can lighten your wallet and perhaps even lead you to overdraft. But there are so many great deals! has free shipping, exact weight, exact color. has a great selection and very helpful reviews. has 3 dollar shipping!

Not to mention that I already have a million discs to trade/sell - Discaroo? I am a birdie member on and there are always good trades there. The credit card is already out and propped up between keys on my keyboard.... there is no turning back.

Being me, of course I have to find something obscure to buy. Go mixed bags! The Discwing Transcend (Baseline). I have a Quarter K, which I really liked. Yes the plastic is not very durable, but I love the grip. Same reason why I choose to throw R-Pro, I figure I am going to end up buying a new disc in 3 months anyway so I don't really need something that will last forever. Anyways... hoping this is going to fill in my longer turnover shots 150-200ft? I don't know, but that color looks cool.

Again obscure... I really like Ching's Power plastic, also feels like R-Pro. I have a Genesis that I really like, and so I might like this. I couldn't find many reviews on the discs flight yet, but from the little I read about, its buzzz like - straight, light turn, light fade. I figure if the Transcend makes it into the bag, this can fit in between that and the Cro.

Stay tuned, and read about my unauthoritative reviews of these discs.


Disc Dyeing: The Basics

Dyeing is a great way to get personalize your discs. This is a very basic tutorial on disc dyeing. There are many adaptations to this method either to the composition of the dye, the mask used for the dye, or the number of masks you use. In this tutorial we are going to turn this disc:

into this disc:

The disc is an Gateway X-Out EHPP. BE ADVISED that not all plastics will dye using this method, and some may not dye at all. Premium plastics (Star, ESP, EHPP, Sirius, etc) and candy plastics (Champion, Elite-Z, Opto) will do best.

==List of Materials==

Everything you need can be found at WalMart or Target, but for those of you who are tired to giving money to corporate monster, I'll try to point out where else you can find them. Here is the list:

1. Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) - check your local hardware store, usually around the paint.

2. Jumbo Cotton Balls

3. Rit Fabric Dye - your local grocery store most likely has this along with laundry detergents and bleach, also check hobby arts and craft stores. You can also order directly from Rit on their website. 

4. 2.5 cups of hot tap water - as hot as it comes out of your faucet.

5. Stock Pot - wherever they have pots... you don't want to put dye in a pot you use for food. Saute and Fry pans work fine, but I prefer stock pots or one with high walls because you don't want to splash dye all over the floor... its not fun to clean up, and sometimes impossible.

6. Clear Contact Paper - I don't know where else to look other than Walmart or Target... it is not in the arts and craft section, but in the "kitchen drawer organization" aisle. Contact paper is what many households line the bottom of their kitchen drawers with.

7. An old credit card - very crucial to have this or some small hard plastic edge.

8. Precision Knife (Xacto)

==Step 1: Stamp Removal (Optional)==

A few things about stamp removal. You don't have to remove the stamp. If you a dye a disc with the stamp on, the stamp will stand out infront of the dye. Some stamps leave a "ghost stamp" after they have been removed. This happens most often with star and esp plastic. Some stamps are also deeply engrained where you can feel it as you run your hand over. It may take a little work to get into those grooves.

1. Wash the disc - Before removing the stamp, wash your disc thoroughly and try to get it as clean as possible. I found that using a Magic Eraser is very good at restoring plastic to its original color and shine, but a wash with warm water and dish soap does well. DO NOT USE A GREEN SCOUR PAD, it will sand the finish off your disc.

2a. Stamp Removal Using Acetone - Soak about 4-5 cotton balls in acetone. Pour just enough acetone on top of the disc to cover the stamp, watch it carefully as the color begins to lift off of the stamp, but the foil should still remain. Take a cotton ball and begin wiping the stamp away, work with smooth strokes. Wipe the stamp off, don't rub. Work quickly and try not to let the disc dry until everything is removed: with colored stamps, acetone can dissolve and dye the disc that color. Use a new cotton ball as they become saturated with color. The advantage of Acetone over MEK is that it is usually half the price and it does not smell as bad. It is also generally more vailable.

2b. Stamp Removal Using MEK - Soak about 4-5 cotton balls in MEK. Pour just enough MEK on top of the disc to cover the stamp, watch it carefully as the color begins to lift off of the stmap, but the foil should still remain. Take a cotton ball and begin wiping the stamp away. Work with smooth strokes and try not to rub. The advantage of MEK over acetone is that it does not evaporate as quickly. This leaves less risk of the stamp dyeing into the disc. It generally takes a lot less MEK to take off a stamp. Only thing is, MEK has a much stronger smell. Definitely do it outside.

==Step 3: Draw out your Stencil==

1. Cut out a portion of contact paper - Outline your disc onto the contact paper and cut out a usable portion of the contact paper, leaving about 3-4 inches around the outline.

2. Draw your stencil onto the contact paper - easiest way is to trace, just place the image underneath the contact paper and try to get light behind it. Sometimes I tape both the image and the contact paper to my TV and put on a bluescreen.

==Step 4: Prepare the dye bath==

1. Mix the dye and water - Pour 2.5 cups of hot tap water into the stock pot and stir in 1 packet of rit fabric dye. 

2. Heat dye bath on stove top - Turn the burner onto very low to low heat.

3. Stir every 5 minutes for 30 minutes - Do this to dissolve the dye and to make sure that the bath does not get too hot. If the dye granules get stuck to the bottom of the pot, they will burn. 

Notes about the dye bath: Make the pot as hot as possible while still being able to put your hands on both sides. If the bath is too hot or if it boils, the water level will go down thus bringing the disc closer to the heat - it will be more likely to burn. Brown, Orange, and Yellow colors seem to have trouble fully dissolving. In other colors, undissolved dye granules are not a problem, but in the case of brown, orange, and yellow, granules have a habit of clumping on the disc leaving uneven and blotchy color on the disc. To avoid this, bring the bath to a boil, strain it through a sieve, and allow the bath to cool to a lower heat.

==Step 5: Lay/Cut your Stencil==

Whether you cut the stencil and then lay down the contact paper OR lay down the contact paper before you cut the stencil, depends entirely on the complexity of the stencil and your ability to cut. I prefer the latter.


Cutting the stencil OFF the disc - Pretty simple, lay your contact paper down on a cutting surface (or any surface you dont mind scratching up) and use your xacto knife to cut out the stencil.

Laying a cut stencil on the disc - This is the hard part about cutting before applying the contact paper. My advice here is to put the stencil face down, adhesive side up. Push the disc down on the stencil lightly just so that it sticks. Flip the disc over, lightly lift one half of the stencil, and use your credit card to squeegee from the middle to the edge. Make sure you squeegee along every cut edge. Lift the other half and do the same. Do your best to remove all bubbles. Bend all edges of the contact paper tightly around the edge of the disc.

Laying contact paper before cutting the stencil - This is very simple, center the uncut stencil over the face of your disc, and let it stick loosely. Lift one side of the contact paper and use the credit card to squeegee from the middle to the edge. Lift the other side and do the same. Whether you are applying the contact paper before after cutting the stencil, SQUEEGEE! Be very diligent and don't let bubbles get between the contact paper and the disc. Bend all edges of the contact paper tightly around the edge of the disc.

 Cutting the stencil ON the disc - In my opinion, cutting after laying down the contact paper helps you get cleaner lines because it is easier to get rid of any air pockets underneath the contact paper. HOWEVER, cutting on the disc takes a little bit of getting used to. I have learned to cut so that there isnt a single scratch on the disc. It doesnt take much pressure to cut through the contact paper: you don't have to press down on the disc to cut. Use a sharp blade and let the knife do the cutting.

Cutting on the disc helps you get the most detail out of your stencil and is the easiest way to get "islands" in a stencil (pieces in a stencil that aren't connected to other parts, like the middle of the letter "O"). Cutting on the disc is pretty much essential for doing remasks (multiple colors). Learn it if you want to do more intricate dyes.

==Step 6: The Dip==

1. Check the dye bath - Make sure that you can hold your hands to the sides of the pot. It should be as hot as possible without burning you. If it is not, lower the heat.

2. Break up bubbles in dye bath - Sometimes there will be bubbles floating in clumps on top of the dye. Use something to poke at them and stir up the dye a little so that the bubbles go away, or at least push them to the very edge. Clear a landing spot for the disc.


3. Here is a quick checklist before you dip -

  • All pieces of the stencil have been cut and removed  
  • The cut stencil is on your disc and all edges have been squeegeed clean from bubbles
  • Dye is hot but not too hot
  • Bubbles in dye are gone/out of the way
4. Dip 1- If everything is ready, lower the disc face down and let it float on top of the dye. Depending on the shape of your stencil, you may have enough excess contact paper on either side of the disc to use as handles. But if you are coloring to the edge of the disc, and there is no excess contact paper along the edge, just wedge your fingers on both sides of the rim almost like you are power gripping opposite sides with two hands. When dipping, it is best to allow the disc to come down at an angle. Pretty much naturally "Squeegees" bubbles trapped between the disc and the dye from one side to the other.

5. Check for bubbles/leaks - After about a minute in the dye, lift the disc and check for bubbles and leaks. Do this by lifting the disc out of the dye. If there are no bubbles or leaks, just put it right back in. If there are bubbles, pop the bubbles on the disc and in the dye, or move them out of the way. Bubbles act as a mask on their own and will stop dye from taking within the bubble. If there are leaks, rinse the disc under cold water and use the credit card to seal up those leaks. Cold water will dilute whatever dye got underneath the mask, and will stop help stop it from dyeing the disc.

6. Dip 2, color checking - Let the disc float in the dye for about 10-20 minutes depending on how dark you want the color. If you are going for black, it is best to let the disc sit for 15+ minutes. To get the color you want, lift the disc out of the dye often, and rinse. If you want it to get darker, rinse with hot water as this helps the dye set, and return the disc to the dye. Do this until you get the right shade. Color checking also allows you to monitor for bubbles and leaks. If you find leaks, DO NOT rinse with hot water. If leaks keep showing up, you may have to remask the disc. 

7. Rinse and Cleanup - Once you are satisfied, rinse the disc with hot water. Leave the stencil on until all visible dye is removed. Turn the tap to luke warm, and remove the stencil. Rinse the face of the disc with cold water to stop the dye. Sometimes gunk gets left behind from the contact paper. The best way to get rid of this is with warm soapy water or with my personal favorite, a Magic Eraser.

==Step 7 Post a Picture, DONE!==  

If you mask it a couple times, and dip it in some more color... you can get here:

Congrats! You just dyed a disc! Now all you have to do is post a picture for everyone to see! Not just to brag, but because the online disc golf community is a great way to learn new techniques. Many online forums (There should be a DGCR link around here somewhere) have wonderfully amazing dyers who are usually more than enthusiastic about helping beginners. Now you know how its done, the possibilites are endless. Don't be afraid to show your friends and your fellow club members how to dye discs. More often than not they will ask you to make one for them... they will probably also offer you money... CHA CHING!